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News from Fulbright Students
The Fulbright students in Damascus during 2000-2001were:
U.S. Fulbright Grantees:
Kevin Martin: Ph.D. cand., M. E. Hist., Georgetown
Laith Moseley: B.A. Pol. Sci., U.C. Berkeley
Kristin Shamas: MA in Hist. Univ. of Oklahoma
Fulbright-Hayes
Nancy Curry, Ph.D candidate in UCSB
The following article was written by Kevin Martin & Kristin
Shamas
The general environment in Syria has opened up considerably in the
last few years. Syria has had the reputation, somewhat unfairly, as
a forbidding place for foreigners, particularly those doing academic
research. While one is still not advised to seek clearance for social
science research on the post-1970 period, other fields and periods
should not elicit controversy. In general, one should be prepared
for a research environment rather different from that encountered
in the Europe and the United States.
As for language study, tutors are plentiful, although price and
quality varies greatly. Formal classes are available at the University
of Damascus, the French Institute for Arab Studies in Damascus (IFEAD),
and the Ma`had, or Institute for Teaching Arabic to Foreigners.
The IFEAD also offers an excellent research base and library of
secondary sources, but the prospective student should be forewarned
that it is, by Syrian standards, quite expensive and that basic
proficiency in French is almost necessary to enjoy its benefits
fully.
Damascus University now offers a "private" Ma`had in
addition to its regular courses in literary Arabic. The quality
of teaching varies, but good instructors are available, especially
at the more advanced levels. Also, the university setting provides
an opportunity to meet and speak with Syrian students, unlike the
Ma`had in Mezze and the IFEAD. However, incorporating the same dry
approach as University classes, and relentlessly focusing on grammar
and texts, the Ma`had at Damascus University neglects listening
and speaking skills.
There are rumors that, with the recent decision to allow private
and/or foreign universities in Syria, Damascus University will be
put under increased pressure to use English in its graduate level
courses, if not eventually in all of its classes. The University
administration is already declaring its intentions to improve the
caliber of English among its faculty in areas like medicine, engineering
and law.
Besides the French Cultural Center and the British Council, the
Instituto Cervantes now offers classes in Syrian dialect for beginners
and advanced students. Classes are small and the instructors are
excellent.
As for social life, the number of western-type restaurants and
clubs has increased recently. Many bars and dance-clubs have also
appeared, particularly in the Old City. The decor, music, and atmosphere
is often less than savory, and drink prices can be very steep. The
popularity of these clubs, or at least their notoriety, is such
that foreign women students are frequently mistaken for "Russians!"
Finally, the most visible change of late is the proliferation
of Internet "cafes." Here again, quality and price varies.
At last count, the central part of Damascus boasted twenty such
businesses, with more appearing daily. Most email addicts agree
that Zoni in Souk Saroujeh is the best value.
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